RSVP journalist Áine Kenny took a trip to Vienna with family back in January – here are all her recommendations for the ‘City of Music’, from where to eat and the sights to see
Hofburg Palace and Michaelerplatz in Vienna, Austria(Image: Jorg Greuel via Getty Images)
My dad recently turned 60, and my two sisters and I wanted to treat him to a city break abroad to celebrate. After weighing up the options, we decided to head to Vienna, Austria’s capital. Famed for its history, beautiful architecture and amazing café culture, we knew dad would enjoy it.
We opted to go in early January as flights were a decent price. One might assume Ryanair is the cheaper option, but in our case, Aer Lingus actually worked out better value. The flights aren’t as frequent, meaning you have to stay for at least three nights, but that was fine by us. I was just glad to have a 10kg checked on bag for all my clothes!
Shortly after booking, I spiralled into a panic, fearing that the weather would be too cold to do anything, but I need not have feared. When we arrived, the temperature was a pleasant -2, and it was a refreshing dry cold, not like the damp weather we have in Ireland. I do suggest wearing thermals underneath your clothes to stay warm while walking around though.
I had actually been to Vienna twice before this trip. The first time was a whistle-stop visit while interrailing in college, and the second time was an anniversary present with my now-husband, who proposed to me in the gardens of Schönbrunn Palace. The fact I wanted to return a third time is testament to just how lovely this city is. There’s always something new to do and see!
Accommodation
During our stay, we resided in Hotel Kaiserhof Wien. I have to say, this was one of the best-run hotels I have ever stayed in. The staff greeted us with such a warm welcome and were joking and laughing with us in no time. The Viennese people have a great sense of humour which quite reminded me of Ireland at times.
The hotel itself is very historic, having first opened its doors in 1896. The polished marble, glittering chandeliers and dark mahogany wood furniture give it a very classic feel. We had breakfast there each morning, which was a great mix of continental food, traditional Viennese fare and fry-ups. They even had Irish tea, not something I have ever seen abroad!
At night, you can enjoy a quiet drink at the hotel bar before retiring to your spacious bedroom. The tap water in the bathroom comes directly from Alpine springs, meaning it’s safe to drink and super refreshing.
The hotel is just a 10-minute walk to the city centre, but it’s conveniently located on the underground line too if you don’t fancy a walk.
Things to do
I would advise anyone visiting this city to book a historical walking tour. Red and White Tours offer ‘free’ walking tours of the city, and you pay a ‘tip’ at the end based on what you think the tour was worth.
Our tour guide Anna was highly knowledgeable and engaging, taking us on a two-hour walk throughout the main sites of the city. We walked around the Hofburg palace complex, where the Habsburg family lived and ruled for centuries. This royal family was very interesting due to their power and influence – they ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Holy Roman Empire, and had many famous members such as Sisi, who was basically the Princess Diana of that time. She was killed by an Italian anarchist and her husband, Emperor Franz Joseph I, never recovered from her death.
While their lives were singularly unique and tragic, the palaces they lived in were extraordinarily beautiful. Many of them have now been converted into museums and art galleries, such as the Albertina and Belvedere Palace. The latter is well worth a visit as it hosts many of the famous Austrian painter Gustav Klimt’s works, including The Kiss. I was absolutely transfixed by this stunning painting and the gold details are so beautiful.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral is also a must-see. Its gothic architecture is an absolute marvel, and the coloured rooftiles almost look like snakeskin. Inside, there are real candles you can light for loved ones, as it’s still a working Catholic church.
The Vienna State Opera house should also be on your to do list. Its Renaissance revival style architecture is exquisite and if you get a chance, do go see a ballet or an opera – you might be able to snap up some really cheap standing only seats for as little as €13!
On one of the days we took the underground out to Schönbrunn Palace, which was the summer home of the Hapsburgs. In front of the palace, there was a cute Christmas market, where I bought a giant pretzel which was the size of my head!
Inside, the palace is simply beautiful. The audio guide will lead you directly though the palace rooms as they were when the Hapsburgs lived there, from Sisi’s private bedroom (they even have her hairbrush!) to Franz Joseph I’s study. Highlights include the Porcelain room, Chinese lacquer panelled walls and the glamorous great gallery with chandeliers and frescos on the ceiling.
If you are interested in Vienna’s more recent history, you can learn more about World War II and the city’s Jewish heritage by booking a specific walking tour with Red and White Tours.
Food
Café and coffee house culture is so important in Vienna, it was put on the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list – and I can see why! Very well-dressed waiters will show you to your table and there’s never any rush to leave, in fact, chatting and people watching are encouraged. We went to Café Conditorei Sluka, which is right in the city centre, and Konditorei Oberlaa, which had beautiful windows and views.
As for the coffee itself, I became partial to a melange. It’s a Viennese speciality, like a lighter version of a cappuccino. There’s many different treats on offer, from tasty cakes to larger desserts, but I loved the Sachertorte, which is a chocolate cake filled with apricot jam.
If you’re on the hunt for a quick snack, Trzesniewski sandwiches are the best. These tiny traditional Polish sandwiches are made on dark rye bread and are super cheap and tasty.
As for dinner, you can get an excellent schnitzel in Restaurant Vienne, along with traditional Austrian potato salad. It’s deliciously tangy!
Overall, I would recommend Vienna to anyone, it’s a perfect city break to brush up on a really interesting part of European history. The one drawback is the expense – it’s just slightly dearer than Dublin, but you can get better value by eating and drinking in areas off the main streets.
This article first appeared in RSVP’s March issue.
Want to see more of the stories you love from RSVP ? To add RSVP as a preferred source of news on Google, simply click here
